When trying to use a Raspberry Pi 4 with a lapdock as a laptop replacement, the first important question is, "Can I disable tap-to-click?" # Can I disable tap-to-click? | Device (links are Amazon links) | Y/N | Notes | | ------ | ------ | ------ | | Kano Keyboard | Yes | Press Fn-Esc, not controllable via software | | Sentio Superbook / Pi Book Pro | No | Touchpad enumerates as a mouse | | NexDock Touch | No | Touchpad enumerates as a mouse | | [Jelly Comb foldable bluetooth keyboard](https://amzn.to/393HS2G) | No | Touchpad enumerates as a mouse | | 360 Phonebook / NexDock 360 / Uperfect X | No | Touchpad enumerates as a mouse | | HP Elite x3 Lap Dock (using a [Wacom Link Plus](https://amzn.to/3lD0snt)) | Yes | Too bad the cursor is floaty/laggy | | Motorola Atrix Lapdock | No | Touchpad enumerates as a mouse | | Leef | No | via Leef developers, not personally tested | | [pi-top Bluetooth Keyboard](https://amzn.to/3vPVCaO) | No | Touchpad enumerates as a mouse | # Can I use the lapdock as a keyboard/trackpad/battery, without using the display? | Device | Y/N | Notes (links are Amazon links) | | ------ | ------ | ------ | | 360 Phonebook / NexDock 360 / Uperfect X | No | Tried with [an HDMI dummy plug](https://amzn.to/3r3Zvp3) | | HP Elite x3 Lap Dock | Yes | Using the Wacom Link Plus | # Will the lapdock battery power a Pi 4 without issue? I use this [power test script](https://bia.is/2019/02/02/raspberry-pi-check-your-power-supply/) to see if undervoltaging occurs. Most of my testing includes a wireless mouse with an RF dongle. | Device | Y/N | Notes | | ------ | ------ | ------ | | Sentio Superbook / Pi Book Pro | Yes | Using stock firmware only | | 360 Phonebook / NexDock 360 / Uperfect X | Yes | No additional USB ports through which to provide extra power to a hub or SATA adapter | # Can I reliably power an external SSD while traveling? If you're getting undervoltage warnings and need to power your external SSD while on the go with your lapdock, you have four options: - a USB 3.0 hub that takes 5V power, so you can power it from a USB power bank; - a USB 3.0 cable with a power injector; - if you're using a 2.5" internal SATA SSD in an enclosure, switch to an enclosure with a 5V power input; - or try a SATA-to-USB cable with a power input. In all of these cases, you really want to look for 5V DC power inputs, or USB/micro-USB power inputs. A 5V DC power input can be fed from a USB power bank. Most devices seem to want 12V/2A or 12V/3A, unfortunately. (You _can_ get USB 5V to 12V step-up cables, but it drops the amperage unusably low as a result.) | Device (links are Amazon links) | Y/N | Notes | | ------ | ------ | ------ | | [ORICO 4-port USB hub](https://amzn.to/317htN3) | Yes | Has a micro-USB port for additional power. Tested powering a single 2.5" internal SSD in an enclosure. | | [MiniPro 2.5" SATA to USB 3.1 (USB-C) aluminum enclosure](https://amzn.to/391JWs3) | | Not tested yet, but the only 5V 2.5" enclosure I've found. It'll need a USB to DC adapter cable like [this Duttek one](https://amzn.to/2PjeeQ4) to power it from a USB power bank. | | [Cable Matters USB to SATA adapter](https://amzn.to/3lCSue3) | No | Has a micro-USB port for additional power. Continued to get undervoltage warnings with it. | Your choice of USB 3.0 SSD will affect your power needs; proper external SSDs seem to have lower power requirements than 2.5" internal SATA SSDs in a USB 3.0 enclosure, but there's an interaction between the SSD and the adapter, too. This [TweakTown study of SSDs and their effect on laptop battery life](https://www.tweaktown.com/articles/8856/best-ssds-notebooks-two-year-study/index.html) shows an hour or more of difference between the lowest- and highest-power SSDs. I haven't yet found something similar for the power consumption of USB-to-SATA adapters. # Colophon As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Updated March 23, 2021 with the SSD report. Updated March 21, 2021 with SATA cable details.